Pableaux’s Cajun Cleanup

Mon, 27 Jan 2025

Today I learned that Pableaux Johnson has passed away, so in his memory I’m sharing with you a recipe he gave me — you’ll love it, even if you never cook this dish. May he rest in peace.

I met Pableaux in New Orleans in 2011, as Bryan Mason and I got ready for TypeCon. Pableaux, laughing, told me I looked like a cop and guided us to breakfast at a friend’s new restaurant. The food was delicious, but what I remember most is how Pableaux made me feel welcome, and the strength and generosity of his joie de vivre. As we left breakfast, Bryan gifted me a book written by the proprietor, which kindled in me a new appreciation for cooking. I kept in touch with Pableaux, who encouraged me by sharing guidance and recipes, including this article he wrote. Enjoy.

Cooking Up a Turkey Bone Gumbo

The aftermath of any authentic Thanksgiving feast involves a heapin’ helpin’ of leftovers. It’s just part of the package. How else would we sustain ourselves through the rest of the long weekend? The accepted Thanksgiving follow-up activities — long naps and mile-high evening sandwiches — are time-honored traditions that make this holiday one of America’s favorites.

For most people, the leftover tradition begins and ends with building “the Ultimate Turkey Sandwich” — a gargantuan structure slathered with layers of mayo, candied yams, cranberry salsa, and just about anything else that graced the banquet table hours earlier.

But if you limit your post-feast snacking to sandwiches, you’ll be missing one of the great American holiday dishes — the infamous Turkey Bone Gumbo.

After a full day of cooking the feast, Cajun cooks all over south Louisiana celebrate the day after Thanksgiving with a bubbling pot of dark gumbo, thick with chunks of leftover bird and spiked with spicy chunks of smoked sausage.

Since the recipe starts with the stripped turkey carcass, this edible ritual makes the most of the holiday bird. A long, slow simmer efficiently removes any bits of meat still clinging to the bones and results in a thick, rich base for the gumbo. It’s a simple (though somewhat time consuming) two-step process, but well worth the effort.

If you don’t have the time to cook up a batch on the day after Turkey Day, wrap up the carcass for freezer storage until you have a free day around the house. It’s the perfect low maintenance activity for a lazy early winter’s afternoon.

This twofold recipe comes from the cookbook “Louisiana Real & Rustic” (1996, William Morrow & Co.), a great collection of recipes from Emeril “The Bam Man” Lagasse (New Orleans’ new full-contact food phenomenon) and Marcelle Bienvinue (Cajun Lousiana’s foremost culinary storyteller).

Turkey Broth

1 turkey carcass
3 ribs celery, cut into 4-inch pieces
2 medium onions, quartered
4 quarts water, or enough to cover carcass
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
4 bay leaves

Place the carcass in a large stockpot. Add the celery, onions, water, salt, peppercorns, and bay leaves.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered, for three hours. Remove from the heat. Skim any fat that has risen to the surface.

Strain through a large fine-mesh sieve (or simple colander). Reserve any meat that has fallen off the bones and pick off any meat that may still remain on the carcass.

Reserve the onions and celery for gumbo. Use immediately or store the broth in quart containers in the freezer.

Makes about 2 quarts (or enough for 1 gumbo).

Turkey Bone Gumbo

3/4 cup vegetable oil
3/4 cup flour
2 cups chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped bell peppers
1/2 cup chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 pound smoked sausage, such as 
  andouille or kielbasa, chopped
2 quarts turkey broth
reserved onions and celery from broth
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped green onion

Combine the oil and flour in a large cast iron pot or enameled cast iron Dutch oven, over medium heat.

Stirring slowly and consistently for 20 to 25 minutes, make a dark brown roux, the color of chocolate.

Season the onions, bell peppers, and celery with the salt and cayenne. Add this to the roux and stir until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often for 5 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered for 45 minutes. Add the reserved turkey meat and the reserved onions and celery and cook for 15 minutes. Add the parsley and green onions.

Serve in soup bowls with rice. (Filé powder can be added at the table according to personal taste.)

Serves 8.

🦃🦴🥘

If you try this recipe, let me know — so I can reply as Pableaux replied to me, the first time I made it. 😁

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